Old Mission district history

 

The drawing on the right, below, shows local Native American Indians on the Bay, around 1816. The resourceful and mostly peaceful Muwekma Ohlone tribes were eventually pushed out of the area, and their land was taken from them. By the Gold Rush days, few remained. The area we call the Mission was not the most hospitable place for later settlers. Huge sand dunes and swamps abounded. However, a steady supply of fresh water was available to the farmers and cattle ranchers.

The painting on the left portrays early explorers traveling north. Spanish speaking residents and landowners who had come from Spain and Mexico, considered themselves Californios. The major portion of their property was obtained when Mexico secularized the Missions, granting vast acreage to favored individuals. When the United States took over the territory in 1848, the Californios began to lose their holdings.

 
Early explorers heading north
 
Indians in the San Francisco Bay, 1816
Arrow with feathers
Indians of Mission Dolores
 
Punishment at the plaza
An 1816 drawing of Mission Dolores with the indigenous Indians, many of whom perished due to illnesses brought into the area by the settlers.
 
This is the plaza, sometime before 1835. The well dressed people may have come to view the hanging of a prisoner or an escaped slave.
 
Abandoned Mission Dolores, 1849
 
Mansion house, 1865
The almost abandoned buildings, in 1849. By that time, they were being used as stables for military horses, a bar, a gambling house and a hotel.
A seminary was added around 1865, and the wayside "Mansion House" was utilized as a stage-coach stop for travelers to San Jose and beyond.
 
Ad for Willows Park
The Mission district enjoyed more sunshine than other parts of the city, and in later years was considered desirable for the building of summer homes. Resorts for recreation were developed, as well as race tracks and other types of public entertainment. This pleasant area of farms and orchards also attracted immigrants from Ireland and Germany, due to more favorable land prices. Large steam shovels, horse teams and a host of workers labored over a period of years to move the sand dunes and fill in the marshes and lowlands. In earlier days, surveys for grants and transference of property used the Mexican vara (about 33") for measuring land parcels. This is one reason for the uneven dimensions of many city lots.
 
Marsden Kershaw was the first owner of the house. He was a merchant who supplied the local public with slate coal that was mined from the hills east of the Bay. His home was one of the earliest on this block, and his family lived there until 1893. Reflecting their advancing fortunes, the neighbors next door rebuilt their older house in grand Queen Anne style. Their family remained there until 1906, but sold the property after the quake and moved out of California. A neighbor purchased it and the corner property as well, probably using the smaller house for servants or extra guests. Originally, there was also a barn and a coach house. Other families on the block were able to use the stables for their horses.
 
 
The Mission district and its waterways
Southern Pacific railroad tracks
 

The drawing on the left shows the general area as it was in the 1860's, between Mission Dolores (bottom) and Potrero Hill (upper, center). Mission Creek (upper, left) ran to the Bay, connecting to Lake McCoppin. It was said that, at high tide, ships could navigate up to present day 18th Street. In the upper right, various waterways from the Mission, including Islais Creek and the stream that ran along Serpentine (Army) St, can be seen. The Potrero district could almost be considered an island, since it was surrounded by water. Mission Bay and all the channels were gradually filled in during the next decade. Clicking on the photo will reveal a clearer image of the area where the house was soon to be built.

The map on the right shows train tracks angling across the district that the Southern Pacific R.R. used for this route to San Jose. There was a complete disregard for an orderly layout of future streets. Some of the rights of way still remain. The main tracks went on to the terminal at Mission Bay. A spur line going along Valencia, continued on to Market, past the popular Willows Park and Woodward's Gardens. Many of the street names on this map have been changed since that time.

 
 
Valencia Street streetcar terminal
 
Streetcar in downtown San Francisco
 
On the left is the Valencia St. terminal. The right photo shows a horse drawn streetcar at Montgomery and Posts Sts. in the 1870's. This particular route was almost level, so the horses were not overly taxed. The Masonic Temple is in the background.
 
Woodwards Gardens
 
Willows Park
Woodward's Gardens, shown on the left, was a popular place for family entertainment in the 1870's and 80's. Almost everything was available for the public's pleasure: Horticultural gardens, restaurants, a museum, rides for children, and even a zoo. Many forms of transportation were offered along Mission St. for visitors to the site. At the bottom, a horse team is drinking from a trough. The Willows Park resort, in the right photo, is seen as it was in 1864. The view is from Mission St. facing Twin Peaks in the distance. Horse racing was another form of entertainment for the locals.
 
It was a bit adventurous to build residences so close to the recently drained swamps at the edge of Lake McCoppin, just a short distance away. The unpleasant hog farms were moved away a few years earlier, much to the relief of the nearby homeowners. During 1873, after many homes in this location had been constructed, a large wooden conduit was built. It carried most of the water from the local streams into Mission Creek. This was also the same year that Andrew Hallidie started operation of the first cable car line. The last parcel of nearby wetlands which had not been channeled into the large sewer under 18th St, was finally filled in during the late 1870's. Only a few homes were ever built on that land, and the area remains a public park to this day.
 
Early lagoons
 
Throughout the city, numerous artesian springs were capped by developers, and small streams were diverted into storm drains. The present owner of this property was notified that there was still a creek running under the house in an old oval brick conduit. The drawing shows the small stream entering the former lagoon from the left. When the garage and rear deck were added 36 years ago, extra reinforcing bars were placed in the concrete to support it in the event of a collapse of the drain. Even though this particular neighborhood is situated on a hill, a few of the owners of nearby properties have had problems with the sinking of their foundations. There are sump pumps in some of the basements to prevent flooding in winter.
Some of the local lagoons in earlier days.